The Strategy Behind Lemaire's Success
How the brand increased sales tenfold to €100 million between 2019 and 2024—and why the expansion of its store network in Asia plays a crucial role.
In February 2020, Vogue Business published an article on Christophe Lemaire’s ambitious vision to transform his namesake brand into a global player in the luxury fashion industry. Backed by growing sales and strategic investment from Fast Retailing, the parent company of Uniqlo, Lemaire seemed ready to achieve this next chapter of growth. However, just as the brand was gaining momentum, the COVID-19 pandemic disrupted global markets and forced a temporary halt to its expansion plans. The unprecedented challenges of the pandemic became a moment of reckoning, requiring the brand to reassess its strategy, refine its goals, and prepare for a vastly different post-pandemic retail landscape.
Now, a few years later, Lemaire has emerged stronger and more focused, successfully resuming its global expansion efforts. Over the past year, the brand has opened flagship stores in Tokyo and Chengdu, building on the success of its November 2023 launch in Seoul. These openings mark a significant milestone, bringing the total number of Lemaire flagship stores to five—three in Asia and two in Paris. This shift reflects a deliberate strategic focus on Asian markets, which have proven to be increasingly vital for luxury fashion brands in recent years due to the region's dynamic consumer base and rapid growth in high-end retail.
The brand’s financial performance mirrors this strategic evolution. According to a recent report by the Business of Fashion, Lemaire’s annual sales skyrocketed from €10 million in 2019 to an impressive €100 million in 2024, a tenfold increase over six years. This growth solidifies Lemaire’s position as a rising force in the global luxury sector, blending its signature understated aesthetic with the robust backing of Fast Retailing’s resources and market expertise.
At the time of the Vogue Business article in early 2020, such growth may have seemed aspirational, but the numbers now tell a different story. Lemaire has not only met but exceeded expectations, proving its resilience and adaptability in a highly competitive and ever-evolving industry. With flagship stores strategically placed in key cities and a growing reputation for quality and timeless design, the brand is entering a new phase of global recognition.
The Backstory of Lemaire
Christophe Lemaire, a literature and applied arts graduate, began his fashion career with seven years as an assistant in various design studios, including four years alongside Christian Lacroix. This experience shaped Lemaire’s appreciation for craftsmanship and storytelling, key elements that would later define his brand.
In 1991, Lemaire gained recognition in the industry after winning the prestigious ANDAM award, a milestone that allowed him to establish his eponymous label. Initially focused on womenswear, the brand stood out for its dedication to timeless, understated designs. By 1995, Lemaire had expanded into menswear, further demonstrating his vision of creating versatile, high-quality pieces that blended functionality with elegance.
In 2000, Lemaire paused his label and accepted the role of artistic director at Lacoste. During his decade-long tenure, he successfully modernized the brand’s classic image by incorporating elements of street fashion, bridging heritage with contemporary appeal. His innovative approach revitalized Lacoste, positioning it as a modern player in the global fashion landscape. Building on this success, Lemaire took the reins as creative director for Hermès womenswear in 2010, succeeding Jean-Paul Gaultier.
In 2014, Lemaire relaunched his own label, this time in partnership with Sarah-Linh Tran. Tran brought a softer, more sensual perspective to the brand, marking the beginning of a new chapter. Together, they rebranded the label from "Christophe Lemaire" to simply "Lemaire," emphasizing the collaborative nature of their creative vision. The duo’s commitment to minimalist, trend-resistant designs resonated with a growing audience of consumers seeking "quiet luxury"—pieces that prioritize longevity, craftsmanship, and understated sophistication.
2015 was a pivotal year for Lemaire, as the brand launched its first e-commerce platform and debuted a collaboration with Uniqlo. This partnership introduced Lemaire’s minimalist aesthetic to a broader audience at accessible price points. The success of this collaboration paved the way for the Uniqlo U line, further cementing Lemaire’s influence within Fast Retailing’s strategy. In 2018, Fast Retailing reinforced its support for the brand with a €4.5 million minority investment, providing Lemaire with the financial backing to scale its operations while maintaining its creative independence.
From its beginnings as a small, cult label to its evolution into a global player in the luxury fashion market, Lemaire’s journey reflects a steadfast dedication to quality, functionality, and timeless design. Today, the brand stands as a beacon of quiet luxury, appealing to consumers who value subtle elegance over fleeting trends.
A Shift in Key Markets
Back in 2020, Lemaire’s sales were evenly distributed across Europe, Asia, and North America, reflecting a balanced global footprint. However, in recent years, the brand has increasingly prioritized Asia as its key market, a shift driven by both cultural and economic alignment with the region’s values and consumer preferences.
Lemaire’s aesthetic, defined by clean lines, neutral tones, and timeless, functional designs with a sophisticated twist, has struck a particular chord in countries like Japan and South Korea. These markets are known for their appreciation of subtle, understated luxury—an ethos that aligns seamlessly with Lemaire’s brand philosophy.
Japan, in particular, serves as a cultural touchstone for Lemaire. The nation’s deep-rooted reverence for craftsmanship, detail, and quality mirrors the brand’s emphasis on creating pieces meant to last a lifetime. Lemaire’s designs also echo the principles of wabi-sabi, the Japanese aesthetic that finds beauty in simplicity and imperfection, creating a natural synergy between the brand’s values and Japanese cultural sensibilities. Additionally, the ongoing collaboration with Uniqlo through the "Uniqlo U" line has amplified Lemaire’s visibility and appeal in the Japanese market, establishing a strong foundation for its growth in Asia.
South Korea is another vital market for Lemaire, where consumers value discreet luxury that blends effortlessly into their everyday lives. The opening of a flagship store in Seoul in late 2023 marked an important milestone in cementing the brand’s presence in the region. The Seoul store, housed in a converted residential building, offers an immersive retail experience, reflecting the brand’s minimalist yet warm design ethos.
Similarly, Lemaire’s Tokyo store, also located in a thoughtfully converted residential space built in the 1960s, provides a serene, gallery-like atmosphere where customers can explore its timeless collections in an intimate setting. These carefully curated spaces emphasize the brand’s dedication to creating environments that mirror the quiet elegance of its designs.
China, while a relatively new territory for Lemaire, also presents significant opportunities. The opening of a boutique in Chengdu in 2024 underscores the brand’s commitment to expanding in this rapidly growing luxury market. Chengdu, a city renowned for its affluent consumer base and thriving retail scene, provides Lemaire with a platform to connect with a new wave of Chinese consumers who are increasingly seeking unique, understated alternatives to the flashy aesthetics of mega-brands.
By aligning its strategy with Asian consumers’ appreciation for quality, functionality, and quiet luxury, Lemaire has successfully positioned itself as a leading brand in the region. Today, Asia accounts for the majority of the brand’s retail footprint, with three of its five flagship stores located in key cities across Japan, South Korea, and China. This strategic shift not only reflects the brand’s responsiveness to market trends but also underscores its ability to resonate deeply with culturally diverse audiences.
Keys to Lemaire’s Success
Lemaire’s remarkable ascent in the competitive luxury fashion industry can be attributed to its deliberate and consistent approach to brand building. A key factor in this success has been its partnership with Fast Retailing, a company that shares Lemaire’s vision of thoughtful, sustainable growth. Unlike the aggressive sales and expansion targets set by private equity-backed competitors, Fast Retailing provides the brand with the financial support and freedom to remain true to its values. This relationship has allowed Lemaire to prioritize longevity over short-term gains, a strategy that has paid off immensely.
Several key factors have defined and sustained Lemaire’s continuous success:
1. Timeless Design and Hero Products
Lemaire has built its reputation on timeless design, avoiding trends in favor of enduring appeal. The brand’s collections emphasize quality, functionality, and versatility, resulting in pieces that transcend seasons. Hero products like the Croissant Bag, with its sculptural yet practical silhouette, the Twisted Denim Trousers, and the Piped Loafers, have become iconic staples in the Lemaire portfolio.
Many of Lemaire’s products are also part of its standing collection, reissued each season in new fabrics and colors. This approach not only minimizes overproduction but also strengthens the brand’s identity by maintaining a consistent and recognizable aesthetic. The commitment to creating timeless essentials ensures that Lemaire pieces remain relevant and desirable year after year.
2. A Unique Brand Code
Lemaire has cultivated a distinctive brand code that resonates deeply with its audience. Each piece exudes a sense of understated elegance, making them instantly recognizable to those who share the brand’s appreciation for quiet sophistication. The brand fosters an “if you know, you know” ethos, creating an aura of exclusivity that appeals to its loyal customer base.
Rather than relying on overt logos or branding, Lemaire pieces serve as cultural identifiers for those who value subtlety.
3. Retail as Experience
Lemaire’s flagship stores are more than retail spaces—they are immersive expressions of the brand’s philosophy. Each store is carefully designed to reflect the brand’s minimalist, thoughtful aesthetic. For example, the flagship in Seoul is housed in a converted residential building, offering an intimate and serene shopping experience.
Every detail in these spaces, from the choice of materials to the layout, reflects Lemaire’s emphasis on harmony, functionality, and timeless design. By creating retail spaces that are as thoughtfully designed as their collections, Lemaire invites customers into a world that embodies their values.
4. Quiet Marketing
In an era where social media influencers and high-budget advertising dominate the fashion landscape, Lemaire stands apart with its restrained and deliberate marketing strategy. The brand avoids flashy campaigns or influencer partnerships, relying instead on word-of-mouth and organic growth.
Lemaire often collaborates with niche, multidisciplinary artists on subtle, culturally rich projects that resonate deeply with its target audience. This quiet marketing approach reinforces the brand’s image as a thoughtful, intelligent alternative to more ostentatious luxury labels. Unlike competitors such as Jacquemus, which leans heavily on spectacle and influencer-driven narratives, Lemaire’s low-key approach creates a sense of authenticity that appeals to its core audience.
5. Strategic Focus on Leather Goods
Luxury brands like Louis Vuitton and Hermès have long relied on leather goods as a cornerstone of their business, and Lemaire is no different. The brand has leveraged its hero products, such as the iconic Croissant Bag, to propel leather goods into a category that now accounts for more than half of its sales.
Personally, I wear my small Croissant Bag almost every day. Judging by the brand’s impressive sales numbers, it’s clear I’m not alone and I expect to see more people wearing the same bag.
Looking Ahead
Lemaire’s ability to scale its operations while remaining true to its core values has established it as a standout in the global luxury market. By prioritizing timeless design, cultivating an exclusive yet approachable brand culture, delivering thoughtfully curated retail experiences, and forgoing traditional marketing strategies, the brand has carved out a unique niche. Its steady and intentional growth demonstrates that success in the fashion industry doesn’t have to rely on spectacle or excess—it can be achieved through authenticity, quality, and a clear, consistent vision.
If you find yourself near a Lemaire flagship store, I recommend going in, I am sure you won’t regret it.
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