Auralee: Japan’s Quiet Luxury Powerhouse
How an unwavering commitment to the finest materials secured first place in Vogue’s 2024 deep dive into best-selling brands at independent stores.
Last week, Paris Men’s Fashion Week was opened by one of my favorite brands—Auralee. Their Fall/Winter 2025 show received a lot of positive feedback and put them on the radar of many people within the fashion industry and beyond.
As a frequent buyer of vintage clothing, Japan is my preferred location to shop (online and in person). When I was on vacation in Japan back in 2023, I obviously spent a good amount of time exploring the various second-hand shops (let me know if you need any recommendations). After a few days of exploring, one brand always stood out to me – you guessed it – Auralee. Since then, I’ve lost count of the number of Auralee pieces I’ve purchased (mainly through Japanese auction platforms at a fraction of the original price). In this deep dive, I explore what makes Auralee exceptional and why I think it has the potential to become a major player in the fashion industry.
Auralee’s Backstory
Founded in 2015 by designer Ryota Iwai, Auralee has rapidly become a distinguished name in contemporary Japanese fashion, celebrated for its dedication to quality and minimalist elegance. Iwai, a graduate of Tokyo’s prestigious Bunka Fashion College, began his journey into fashion during high school, where he worked part-time at a vintage clothing store. This experience ignited his passion for clothing, initially fostering a desire to own his own shop. However, his interests gradually shifted toward garment creation. He subsequently honed his skills as an assistant at the knitwear brand NORIKOIKE, where he developed a deep appreciation for textiles and meticulous craftsmanship.
The name "Auralee" is inspired by an American folk song and means "The Land That Lights Up." Ryota Iwai sought a name that was concise and memorable, preferring not to use his own. From its inception, Auralee has focused on high-quality, minimalist clothing, emphasizing superior materials and meticulous craftsmanship. The brand collaborates closely with skilled Japanese artisans and textile manufacturers, often commissioning bespoke fabrics exclusively woven for its collections. This approach ensures a seamless blend of innovation and heritage.
Iwai's design process is deeply rooted in the exploration of materials. He often begins by envisioning the texture, feel, and technical aspects of a fabric, such as dyeing, weaving, or processing techniques. For instance, when working with materials like cotton or wool, he visits various weavers to convey his vision directly, engaging in iterative communication and experimentation to develop the desired textile. This hands-on approach allows for the creation of unique fabrics that form the foundation of Auralee's designs.
Auralee's distinctive focus on material innovation and understated design has garnered significant acclaim within the fashion industry. In 2018, Iwai was awarded the FASHION PRIZE OF TOKYO, leading to the brand's debut at Paris Fashion Week in 2019. This recognition marked a pivotal moment, establishing Auralee as a representative of Tokyo's vibrant fashion scene on the global stage.
In essence, Auralee stands as a testament to Ryota Iwai's philosophy that exceptional materials are the cornerstone of exceptional clothing. By meticulously crafting each piece from the fiber up, the brand offers garments that are not only visually appealing but also possess a tangible quality that speaks to the senses, embodying a quiet yet profound luxury.
What Makes Auralee Stand Out?
Auralee’s standout quality lies in its unwavering commitment to using the finest materials and allowing them to dictate the design. Ryota Iwai personally travels to destinations like Mongolia for cashmere and camel fibers and to Australia and New Zealand for wool, forming direct relationships with suppliers. These face-to-face interactions are crucial for building trust and ensuring that every fiber meets Auralee’s high standards.
This material-first approach influences every stage of the design process. While Iwai plans his designs alongside textile development, he adapts them as needed to align with the final fabric, ensuring each piece achieves harmony between material and form.
Beyond its dedication to materials, several other factors contribute to Auralee’s unique position in the fashion world:
Timeless Design and Quiet Sophistication
Auralee rejects the fleeting nature of trend-driven fashion in favor of timeless, sophisticated pieces that endure. Its aesthetic is characterized by neutral tones, clean lines, and balanced proportions, creating garments that seamlessly integrate into diverse wardrobes. This design philosophy echoes brands like The Row, with an emphasis on longevity, wearability, and understated elegance.
For example, Auralee’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection revolved around the “solace of a city park,” where people from all walks of life gather. The collection skillfully combined formal elements like tailored suits with casual pieces such as bomber jackets, showcasing a harmonious balance between structure and relaxation.
This understated approach extends beyond aesthetics into a lifestyle. Auralee speaks to individuals who value subtle refinement, emphasizing beauty in simplicity over ostentation.
Cultivated Clientele and ‘If You Know, You Know’ Status
Auralee’s minimalist branding has cultivated a discerning clientele that values subtle luxury and refined design. By leaving out logos or conspicuous markers, the label has achieved a highly coveted ‘If You Know, You Know’ (IYKYK) status. This approach fosters a sense of exclusivity, creating a community of wearers who recognize and appreciate the brand’s quality without the need for overt validation.
This low-key strategy has also helped the brand maintain a sense of mystery and allure, appealing to fashion enthusiasts who value discretion and individuality in their wardrobe choices.
Everyday Wearability
Auralee’s designs are not just visually appealing but also effortlessly wearable. Silhouettes are versatile and functional yet sometimes surprising. The collections often feel more like a complete wardrobe rather than a distinct story told through design.
This approach reflects a modern vision of luxury—one that prioritizes how clothing feels as much as how it looks. Auralee’s designs feel approachable and seamlessly integrate into everyday life, offering an elevated experience without compromising practicality.
Slow Store Expansion
Auralee currently operates just one flagship store, located in Tokyo’s upscale Aoyama district. This flagship serves not only as a retail space but also as a physical embodiment of Auralee’s minimalist and refined aesthetic.
Rather than pursuing rapid global expansion, Auralee has chosen to prioritize selective partnerships with retailers that align with its values and vision. This careful curation ensures that the brand’s image remains consistent and that its products are presented in environments that reflect its commitment to quality and craftsmanship.
In recent years, Auralee’s reach has expanded organically, with a growing number of retailers in Europe and the US embracing the brand. Stores like Dover Street Market and SSENSE, as well as platforms like Farfetch, have introduced Auralee to discerning international audiences who appreciate its understated elegance. These partnerships have allowed the brand to maintain exclusivity while tapping into new markets, particularly in fashion-forward cities such as London, New York, and Paris.
This slow-growth strategy has proven to be a strength rather than a limitation. By eschewing overexposure, Auralee retains the allure of scarcity that is integral to its appeal.
Selected Collaborations
Auralee uses collaborations thoughtfully to tap into new customer bases while staying true to its ethos.
One of Auralee’s most enduring collaborations has been with New Balance. This partnership has produced several minimalist sneakers that seamlessly complement Auralee’s aesthetic. During last week’s fashion week, the brand unveiled a new iteration of its New Balance collaboration, drawing attention from both fashion and sneaker enthusiasts.
Another standout collaboration was with Danish lifestyle company Tekla. This capsule collection drew inspiration from the Japanese tradition of visiting an onsen, celebrating themes of relaxation and mindfulness. Incorporating Tekla’s expertise in home textiles and Auralee’s mastery of minimalist design, the collection featured loungewear and accessories that embodied serene elegance. This project not only resonated with Auralee’s existing clientele but also introduced the brand to Tekla’s audience, showcasing its ability to create functional yet beautiful pieces that transcend categories.
Auralee’s collaborations reflect a thoughtful expansion of the brand’s universe, offering fresh perspectives while staying true to its core identity.
The ‘Japan Effect’ in the Luxury Market
While Auralee’s success is largely driven by its meticulous craftsmanship and design philosophy, it would be naïve not to acknowledge an important external factor—Japan’s current status as a key destination for international fashion enthusiasts.
Currently, Japan is affected by the weak yen, which has had a dual impact on its fashion industry. On one hand, the depreciation of the yen makes imported raw materials more expensive—a challenge for brands like Auralee, which source premium fabrics globally. However, this same economic condition has bolstered Japan’s appeal as a luxury shopping destination for international visitors. For overseas consumers, the weak yen translates into more attractive pricing, driving luxury sales and fueling tourism.
According to Bain & Company’s latest luxury report, Japan is now the leading region globally for luxury sales, outpacing traditional markets like Europe and the United States. This surge has been driven not only by a strong domestic consumer base but also by an influx of tourists, particularly from China and Southeast Asia, who seek unique products with authentic craftsmanship.
Auralee is well-positioned to benefit from these dynamics. Its distinctly Japanese ethos, combined with international visibility through Paris Fashion Week, allows the brand to resonate with both local and global audiences. For international fashion enthusiasts visiting Japan, Auralee offers an authentic connection to the country’s design excellence, further enhancing its appeal in a highly competitive luxury market.
Auralee’s Promising Yet Crucial Path Forward
Auralee’s trajectory suggests a bright future, but the coming years will be critical in shaping the brand’s long-term success. While its growth so far has been organic and steady, the brand faces several challenges that will need to be addressed to solidify its position in the global fashion landscape:
Challenge 1: Scaling While Maintaining Quality
One of Auralee’s greatest strengths is its commitment to superior materials and craftsmanship. However, as demand grows, ensuring that these high standards are maintained across an expanded product line and larger production scale will be a big challenge. Striking a balance between scaling operations and preserving the meticulous attention to detail that defines the brand will be pivotal.
Challenge 2: Establishing a Hero Product
Auralee’s timeless designs are undoubtedly a strength, but the absence of a hero product—a signature item that anchors the brand in consumers’ minds—represents a missed opportunity. Looking at parallels with Lemaire, one of its key drivers of growth has been its recognizable leather goods category, which has become a cornerstone of its identity. While Auralee excels in creating versatile, minimalist clothing, the development of a standout product or category, such as leather goods or accessories, could give the brand an edge in achieving greater market visibility and customer loyalty.
As Auralee navigates these challenges, two possible trajectories come to mind:
Option 1: Steady Organic Growth
Auralee could continue its measured expansion, maintaining its strong presence in Asia while steadily growing in Europe and the US. This approach would allow the brand to strengthen its global footprint while staying true to its ethos. In this scenario, Auralee’s growing appeal might even position it as an attractive acquisition target for a larger luxury group in the future.
Option 2: Ryota Iwai’s Move to a Major Luxury House
Given Ryota Iwai’s talent and growing influence (he was voted one of fashion’s most underrated designers by Vogue Runway readers in a 2024 survey), it’s not hard to imagine him taking on a creative director role at an established luxury brand. Drawing a parallel with Christophe Lemaire’s transition to Hermès, Iwai’s minimalist aesthetic and deep respect for craftsmanship make him a natural fit for a house like Hermès or another heritage brand seeking to evolve while maintaining timeless elegance.
Conclusion: Auralee’s Future Is Bright
Auralee’s unique blend of minimalist aesthetics, commitment to quality, and strategic positioning underscores its potential to become a leading name in the fashion industry. Its steady rise reflects the growing appreciation for brands that prioritize authenticity and craftsmanship.
Regardless of the direction Auralee takes—whether it continues its steady growth or sees Iwai pursue new creative horizons—it is clear that the brand has cemented its place in the fashion landscape. One thing is certain: Auralee is here to stay, and its journey is one to watch.